THE TRUTH BEHIND FAST FASHION - MUST KNOW FACTS

The textiles industry heavily relies on non-renewable resources, using 98 million tonnes annually which has significant environmental impacts. This includes the production of synthetic fibres like polyester, nylon and acrylic, all of which are derived from oil. Additionally, the use of fertilizers and pesticides in cotton farming affects soil health and surrounding ecosystems. Toxic chemicals involved in processes like bleaching, dyeing, finishing and treating textiles, many of which are harmful to human health. As most synthetic textiles are petroleum-based, the industry requires a significant amount of oil, and by 2050, it is projected to consume 300 million tonnes annually.

High volumes of non-renewable resources like oil for synthetic fibres, chemicals and water are extracted to make garments, often with short lifespans, contributing to a large amount of waste. After a short period of use, many garments are either landfilled or incinerated, resulting in lost materials and resources. It is estimated that more than half of ‘fast fashion’ produced is disposed of in under a year. The landfills often consist of non-biodegradable synthetic fibres, taking hundreds of years to degrade, leading to long-term environmental impacts. Incineration releases harmful toxins into the air, further contributing to pollution.

One garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or incinerated every second. In New York, the city spends over USD 20 million annually on landfilling and incinerating textiles, the majority of which are discarded clothing. Similarly, in the UK, the cost of landfilling clothing and household textiles amounts to approximately GBP 82 million (USD 108 million) each year. This expense not only represents a significant economic burden but also reflects the environmental impact of textile waste. The economic and environmental costs underscore the importance of improving textile waste management, including greater efforts to recycle, reuse, and reduce waste.

In 2015, the global textiles industry was responsible for producing 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2, surpassing the combined emissions from all international flights and maritime shipping. This carbon footprint stems from various stages of textile production, including the extraction of raw materials, manufacturing processes and energy-intensive operations like dyeing and finishing. The widespread use of petroleum-based synthetic fibres and the industry's reliance on fossil fuels for energy contribute significantly to these emissions.

Around 60% of the materials used in the fashion industry are made from plastic, including polyester, acrylic and nylon. These synthetic fabrics are popular for being lightweight, durable and affordable. However, each time they're washed, they release tiny plastic fibres called microfibres, a form of microplastic. These microfibres can end up in the ocean, where marine animals mistake them for food, leading to serious issues like starvation, stunted growth and damaged digestive systems. Additionally, microplastics often carry harmful contaminants such as pesticides and industrial chemicals.

The textiles industry is a significant contributor to ocean plastic pollution, with plastic-based fabrics like polyester, nylon, and acrylic shedding around 500 thousand tonnes of microfibres annually during washing. These tiny plastic fibres, equivalent to over 50 billion plastic bottles, make up 35% of the primary microplastics entering the ocean. One study estimates that an average European shellfish consumer eats as many as 11,000 microplastic particles per year through their diet. There could already be 1.4 quadrillion microfibres in the ocean, according to George Leonard, Chief Scientist for The Ocean Conservancy, posing serious environmental and health risks.

Each year, consumers worldwide miss out on USD 460 billion in value by throwing away clothes that could still be worn. The average number of times a garment is worn has dropped by 36% globally over the past 15 years, with some garments discarded after just seven to ten wears. In the US, clothes are worn about a quarter as long as the global average, and in China, has decreased by 70%. Doubling the number of times a garment is worn could reduce GHG emissions by 44%. In the UK, 26% of clothing is disposed of because the owner no longer likes it, and 42% because it no longer fits.

Less than 1% of materials used to produce clothing are recycled into new clothing, with some estimates suggesting this figure may be even lower, around 0.1%. Most recycling from discarded clothing is down-cycled into lower-value products like insulation, wiping cloths, or mattress stuffing. Globally, only about 25% of garments are collected for reuse or recycling. In Germany, 75% of discarded clothing is collected, while in the US and China, the rates are much lower at 10-15%. Many countries, especially in Asia and Africa, lack collection systems altogether.

Currently, 87% of the fibre used in clothing ends up in landfills or is incinerated, resulting in a lost opportunity worth over USD 100 billion annually. This includes both production off-cuts and discarded garments. Poor waste management not only squanders valuable materials but also takes up limited landfill space and causes environmental harm. Natural fibres like cotton and wool release methane as they decompose, while plastic-based fibres, such as polyester, can persist in landfills for hundreds of years. Additionally, chemicals used during production can leak into the environment if not properly managed.

As much as 73% of the material entering the clothing system is lost after the final use of garments, highlighting the inefficiencies in the industry. Additionally, approximately 10% of materials are lost during garment production, primarily as off-cuts, which contributes to unnecessary waste. Furthermore, around 2% of produced garments are sent to landfills or incinerated before they even reach the market.

Cotton farming uses 16% of the world’s pesticides despite occupying only 2.5% of arable land, with India accounting for 50% of its pesticide use. Hazardous chemicals used in production harm both textile workers and the environment. Polyester production relies on fossil fuels, while conventional cotton farming demands high amounts of water, fertilizers and pesticides. As an example, the Citarum River in Indonesia, known as the world’s most polluted river, is heavily contaminated by over 200 textile factories. These factories release dangerous chemicals like lead and mercury into the water, killing over 60% of fish species and severely impacting local communities.

Textile production, including cotton farming, consumes around 93 billion cubic metres of water annually, accounting for 4% of global freshwater withdrawal. Over two-thirds of this water use is attributed to clothing. Many major cotton producing countries, such as China, India, the US, Pakistan, and Turkey, face high water stress. In China, 80-90% of fabric and fibre production occurs in water-scarce regions. Additionally, washing clothing globally requires another 20 billion cubic metres of water annually. This high-water usage highlights the industry's significant impact, especially in regions already facing water shortages.

Demand for clothing is rapidly increasing, especially in emerging markets across Asia and South America. If this trend continues as expected, global clothing sales could reach 175 million tonnes by 2050 - more than triple today's levels.

References: Ellen MacArthur Foundation, A new textiles economy: Redesigning fashion’s future,
http://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications